Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Chaliang

People have lived here since prehistory: burials at nearby Wat Chom Chuen date to at least the 3rd–4th century CE, followed by Dvaravati and Khmer influence. Wikipedia, citing scholars, says the Chinese Song Shi records a polity called Chengliang in 1001; Chaliang was lost around 1180 and retaken in 1239 (some say 1238), and Si Satchanalai was founded on its west side around 1250.

The first sanctuary is thought to be a Khmer Mahayana temple of Jayavarman VII's reign, late 12th to early 13th century, in Bayon style, though some archaeologists credit Sukhothai with the first prang. The temple is named in the Ram Khamhaeng Inscription No. 1 of 1292. The inscription says Ram Khamhaeng dug up relics in 1287 and enshrined them under a chedi at Si Satchanalai; some scholars such as Gosling identify it with the Chaliang Mahathat, while Prince Damrong and Coedès favoured Wat Chang Lom.

The prang seen today is Ayutthaya-period work encasing the earlier sanctuary, stucco over laterite in a corn-cob shape, about 25 m high by estimate, with no official figure. Prof. Santi Leksukhum presumes it was built under King Borommatrailokanat, with a possible further restoration in the 18th century. Steep east stairs lead to a chamber with a small stupa and faint murals. The poem Yuan Phai calls Chaliang "Chiang Chuen" and tells how its lord defected to Lan Na in Borommatrailokanat's reign.

The east gate is topped by a small prang carved with four faces in Bayon style, read as Avalokiteshvara or Brahma, with apsara reliefs; the west gate is more ruined. A wall of close-set round laterite pillars encloses about 60 × 90 m.

Before the prang is a viharn of laterite pillars and walls with a large seated Sukhothai-style Buddha in the earth-touching posture and a stucco reclining Buddha; beside it is a stucco walking Buddha in Sukhothai style. Behind the prang stands Phra That Mueta, a Mon-style chedi on a large laterite base with a broken top, where excavation around 1992 found traces of gilding. There are also the Phra Attharot mondop and the Phra Song Phi Nong viharn.

The Fine Arts Department began restoring Si Satchanalai in 1953. Secondary sources say the temple was registered as a monument in 1935 and raised to royal-temple status in 1958 after a visit by King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit. Princess Sirindhorn opened Si Satchanalai Historical Park on 17 November 1990, and on 12 December 1991, at the 15th World Heritage Committee session in Carthage, Tunisia, UNESCO inscribed the Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns as World Heritage.

Late in Rama V's reign, around 1900–01, the still-abandoned temple was taken over by a wandering monk called Khrua Phu Wiset, who tried to raise a huge flagpole — three people died — and to set a parasol on Phra That Mueta, before he was lured to new Sawankhalok at Ban Wang Mai Khon and arrested, as Prince Naris recorded in his letters. Then, between 4 January and 9 March 1907, Crown Prince Vajiravudh toured the Phra Ruang towns and judged this prang the oldest building in the region, perhaps over a thousand years old — his opinion, not a settled finding.

After Ayutthaya fell in 1767 the town was abandoned and its people moved to Ban Wang Mai Khon, today's Sawankhalok. In the great 2011 floods the Yom River threatened the Chaliang sites, so check conditions in the September–October flood season.

From Sukhothai take Highway 101 north about 50–60 km to Si Satchanalai Historical Park, then follow the riverside road about 2–3 km; bicycles can be hired at the main zone. It opens about 08:30–16:30. Fee reports differ: some say this zone charges 20 baht apart from the main ticket, others that it is free, so ask the park.

The prang stairs are very steep and not for small children or unsteady walkers. The grounds are lawns and laterite paths with little shade, so come early, and dress modestly at this active temple. Si Satchanalai's annual event is Yon Adit Si Satchanalai, held 6–10 December in 2025 in the historical park; the province's big Loi Krathong is at Sukhothai Historical Park.