Chansen Ancient Town

Around it lie the Bueng Chansen reservoir, about 170 × 240 m (about 25 rai), and the Khan Khu Hanuman embankment, about 20 m wide, running some 4 km east-northeast for water control. Little survives above ground, as the site was dug for objects and its bricks used for road fill, leaving a mound and moat amid rice fields; the museum is the main thing to see.

In 1966 aerial-photo expert Nij Hincheeranan spotted the town plan in aerial photographs and, with the Fine Arts Department, stopped a brick stupa base on Khok Chansen from being dismantled for road fill. In 1968–69 Bennet Bronson of the University of Pennsylvania Museum and the Fine Arts Department excavated the site, finding occupation from about 200 BCE to about CE 1000 — from the late Metal Age through a phase some call 'Funan' to late Dvaravati. Luang Pho Od kept a diary of the dig.

Key finds include an ivory comb carved with horses, geese and Buddhist symbols from about CE 0–250, a terracotta 'monkey boy' figurine, terracotta sealings with Shaivite symbols and Pallava-type script, a dharma wheel, a stone lotus base, polished stone axes, a bronze spearhead and terracotta votive tablets. The town was abandoned in late Dvaravati times, perhaps as Lop Buri rose. Under Rama V the community revived with the Northern railway, bringing Thai, Chinese, Lao and Isan settlers; Wat Chansen was founded on 28 April 1907 according to the Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre (one source says 1903), with Luang Pho Khian as first abbot.

The Chansen Museum is inside the base of the Dvaravati-style Phra Maha That Chedi Si Chansen, designed by Wanida Phuengsunthorn of Silpakorn University. Luang Pho Od (Phra Khru Nisai Chariyakhun, born Wisut Paenpto on 28 December 1917 at Ban Hua Khao, Takhli; ordained 21 May 1938; Wat Chansen's 10th abbot from 1950 and Takhli district ecclesiastical head from 1973) began it with amulet donations but died on 17 July 1989; his body is kept in his former kuti, open daily. Luang Pho Charoen finished it, opening it around 1996, and Princess Sirindhorn formally opened it on 14 July 1999. Its 15 displays include human skeletons from Ban Mai Chai Mongkhon. The community still weaves Chansen mudmee on treadle looms and makes bamboo baskets. Each Songkran the Luang Pho Nak image is carried to the Takhli district office for public bathing rites. No Royal Gazette registration of the ancient town was found, though one article says the Bueng Chansen reservoir is registered with the Fine Arts Department.

The museum opens Wednesday–Sunday and public holidays, 09:00–16:00, closed Monday and Tuesday; entry is free. Student guides lead tours at weekends, and groups should book seven working days ahead. There is a ramp and an accessible toilet; phone 089-803-6441. By train, take the Northern Line to Chansen station, then walk or take a motorcycle taxi about 500 m. Don't dig for or buy artefacts.